Yesterday, we went into one of the worst neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. This week's (or one of them, because we had two) birthday party was in
La Ciudad Oculta*, a poor, rundown neighborhood that I believe is located on the outskirts of the city. Honestly, whenever I'm riding in the van I felt almost like I did on athletic road trips on high school. I knew that I was somewhere in Connecticut, New Hampshire, or Massachusetts, but past that I would not be able to be much help to anyone attempting to drive to the location.
Anyway, as we get near our site, I have trouble believing what I am seeing. Populating the area are all these little residences that have house-like features but cannot be described as houses.
They are maybe about 10 feet high, 10 feet wide, and 15 feet lengthwise (again, just guesses). They are small, yet people clearly live in them. Through one I think I saw and heard the sounds a man enjoying a sitcom, so I suppose they're wired for electricity. Still, the size, not to mention the construction materials (a mildly unsafe-looking mix of scrap metal and wood), really made me wonder how people can actually live like this.
One of the reasons that this is so troubling is because BsAs is currently going through its winter right now. It is not horribly cold, getting down to around 40-50 degrees. As I said, that's not generally considered to be in the extreme end as cold weather goes (especially to me, as I tend to be cold-blooded, went to school in New England, and am blessed with an organic parka). However, if you have just a few inches of material "protecting" your home from the elements or your parents realize that buying you a good coat throws off the house's food budget for several months, 50 degrees is rough. As we played outside for the hour or so before the birthday party activities got kicked off, I noticed that a disturbingly large portion of the children could not go a few minutes without coughing.
Yesterday was probably in the high 50s, so (especially with long sleeves, which a good deal of the children wore) the temperature was just fine for outdoor play. There was no wind and the air was not moist. Now, maybe I'm making too much of it and there's a bit of a cold going around. I'll try to get a feel for it next week.
Now, to the good part. And without doubt, Wednesday's activity was much more "good part" than it was not. To help keep me on track, I'm going to discuss what the high points of yesterday's outing for me were:
1. If it seems that there are no blacks in the city, then there are REALLY no blacks in this area.
So, I didn't mention this in my post about last week, but one thing that was interesting about the activity I attended was that the first or second question I was asked after introducing myself to the woman in charge of the center was whether my city and my area were made up of mostly black people. I told her, of course, that my hometown Pine Bluff is a majority black city but that my home state of Arkansas, was not. Being so phenotypically different from the vast majority of the country has resulted in that being the first thing many people see when I meet them (and at times the only thing they see if we simply pass by each other on the street). It does not seem to be in a spirit of disdain or hatred, just lack of familiarity and curiosity. Nowhere was this more evident than yesterday.
Most of the boys who attended yesterday were in that 10-14 year range, which is a group I consider generally pretty friendly towards forging quick connections with young guys who engage them. Little did I know that I had an unexpected trump card with this group. Indeed, as I was talking to one of my fellow volunteers, a kid came over and introduced himself to us. After about a minute of conversation, he says something I do not quite understand... "Sabes rapear?" meaning "Do you know____?" However, I really could not figure out what he meant. I tried to make sense of it phonetically, deciding at one point if he was asking me if I knew how to fence. Then he said "Rapear... la musica."
He was asking if I knew how to rap! This, of course, left me in stitches. He seemed like a kid who really enjoys the genre (his favorite rapper is Tupac), but he clearly has had few, if any, chances to talk to an actual black person. I was able to talk for a few minutes with him about rap, as I did with his friends as they gathered around me as if I were Maradona, Evita, and Charley Garcia rolled into one. Honestly, though, they were probably hipper than I am.
A bit later, they asked if I could dance and preceded to do a quick break dancing move to give me an idea of what I was expected to be able to do. The funny thing was, no matter how corny I am and how much I tried to present that information for full disclosure, they were still fascinated by me.
Seriously, though. They're clearly a smart, perceptive bunch. Not ONE asked me if I jump really high or run really fast.
2. I'm not terrible at rope-twirling.
Somehow, the guy who never hopscotched or jumped rope as a child, even as a goof, ended up spending the most time on rope-twirling duty. Surprisingly, it was a lot of fun. The kids kept asking for mustard, and aside from my spending way too much time fearing that I was going to be responsible for some little Porte
ño's sustaining massive foot and head injuries, it was was a blast. Also, surprisingly for me, more boys got in on the action than I recall I or my friends doing at that age.
3. I'm a sweet goalie.
My goal was like a party in an exclusive nightclub in Fort Knox during a New Year's Eve party hosted by Puff Daddy: You're not getting in. With dress shoes whose combined size almost surely exceeded the amount of time in minutes I have actually spent playing soccer, I was teaching these kids a valuable lesson... namely, that you should never expect anybody to give you anything you don't earn. Unfortunately for them, yesterday was a day when you simply couldn't work hard enough to get one past me.
Sure, a guy who's really good at soccer was playing in front of me, limiting the actual number of goals I had to stop personally. And like many boys of that age, they haven't quite learned to sublimate their loving of scoring for the greater good of a win. Does that change the fact that I played shutout ball? The scoreboard says no.
4. We do a lot wrong and will surely continue to err, but America still stands for something really special in the eyes of many around the world.
It was amazing how many questions I got about the States. They asked about the Twin Towers, the breakdown of land (the country versus cities), its beauty, etc. All these things that I really do not think would have occurred to 12 year old Geoffrey.
As we left around 7, we saw a group of kids returning to their neighborhood after school. Returning to those dirty streets, those petty thugs and gangsters we saw hanging out as we left, and those shabby houses. Honestly, those thoughts made me sad, and thinking about it now does as well. Not only do you fear for these kids' futures on something of an individual level, you see just how much hurt and need there is all around the world. But you know what? As I said earlier, and as I always will say, these kids have brains and potential. If good people keep doing good work, and trying to make it easier for these young people to be who they can be, we'll all be a lot better off. All in all, though, it was a great experience and I look forward to future trips to this place.
*http://www.nytimes.com/2008/02/23/world/americas/23argentina.html?_r=1&scp=54&sq=buenos+aires&st=nyt&oref=slogin